Backpacking in the Porcupine Mountains - Hiawatha Hiking Company

July 5, 2020

Background/Logistics

The week of June 22nd, 2020, we decided to do some overnight backpacking in the Porcupine Mountains (aka Porkies). Porcupine Mountains Wilderness State Park is about three hours west of our home in Au Train, Michigan. At 60,000 acres, it is one of the largest wilderness areas in the Midwest. Domonick and I visited in the winter and yurt camped. We knew we wanted to visit again without snow pants! Reservations are required for backcountry campsites May 15 to October 14. We reserved a campsite for Monday night at “LC-3” which is just west of Lily Pond. We hiked a 35-mile loop and saw most of the west end of the park. Visit here for a park map.

Day 0

We drove to the Porkies on Sunday, arriving around 4pm. We visited arguably the most popular part of the park, Lake of the Clouds. What a view!

Afterwards, we did the short Summit Peak hike. There is a lookout tower with a sweeping view of Lake Superior and the surrounding hills. We saw a storm rolling towards us in the distance and decided it was time to find a place to camp. Dispersed camping is not allowed in the park, but we read about a small campsite off of a section of Boundary Road that is not in the park. We found the aforementioned spot, which didn’t look like a well established site. We soon found out the mosquitoes were out in full force. With the impending storm, unlevel ground, and flying bite-machines, we decided to sleep in our Ford Explorer.

Day 1 (16.3 miles)

We visited the ranger station at the Presque Isle Scenic Area in the morning and checked in for our camping reservation. We began our hike on the Lake Superior Trail and were impressed with the waterfalls on the Presque Isle River.

Manabezho Falls

Manido Falls

Presque Isle River Gorge

There were many steep ups and downs that were reminiscent of the Long Trail in Vermont (Domonick and I thru-hiked this gem in 2017). There were also many blow downs and I can’t say this was the best maintained trail we’ve been on. We passed by Speaker’s cabin (there are many cabins in the park that you can reserve in advance) and shortly after enjoyed lunch on the shores of Lake Superior with our national bird.

Lake Superior and a Bald Eagle!

We hung a right near the Little Carp cabin and followed the North Country Trail (NCT). There were a couple shallow creek crossings where we couldn’t rock hop, so decided to take our shoes off and walk across barefoot. [Side note: In larger, fast flowing bodies of water, we recommend keeping shoes on! Early on during our thru-hike of the Pacific Crest Trail in 2016, I made the mistake of taking my shoes off during one of the many river fords. I lost my balance, fell in, and got banged up before Domonick was luckily able to yank me up before I was swept away.]

We got into camp shortly before dinner. There was a bear pole to hang our food, fresh water at the neighboring Little Carp River, but unfortunately no pit toilet.

Day 2 (18.6 miles)

We passed Lily Pond shortly after we started hiking, and Mirror Lake after that. We had a little respite from the mosquitoes in the middle of the night, but after a good night’s rest, the mosquitoes were as feisty as ever. Bug nets were a life saver on this trip.

Lily Pond

This section of trail was very scenic, well maintained, and much more traveled than the prior day’s trail. We crossed paths with several other backpackers and day hikers. We veered left at the Correction Line Trail. There were a couple more shoe-less creek crossings, but the fresh water felt good on our tired feet. We saw plenty of frogs, wildflowers, and a large family of ducks.

We met up with the Big Carp River Trail and continued west, breaking for lunch at the mouth of the Big Carp River. This was probably the busiest section of trail, for good reason. It was incredibly scenic with picturesque camping sites and a handful and nice-looking cabins. After lunch, we made our way back towards our car on the Lake Superior Trail, really enjoying the walk by the shoreline. We arrived at our car in the late afternoon.

Bonus!

Before heading back home, we stopped for a visit at O Kun de Kun Falls. It looked like the trail was rebuilt quite recently, with a lovely gravel path. The waterfall was wonderful!

Summary

We loved backpacking in the Porcupine Mountains and it is one of my new favorite places to visit. We are so fortunate to live so close by. I would like to visit again and backpack on the east side of the park. Domonick and I liked it so much that we are thinking of adding the Porcupine Mountains to our line-up of guided backpacking trips in the coming years!

The Upper Peninsula is full of beauty. The Porcupine Mountains, Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore, Hiawatha National Forest, Keweenaw Peninsula, and Isle Royale are definitely in our top five. We would love to share the beauty of our backyard with you, whether it’s on a sunset hike or guided backpacking trip. We can’t get enough of exploring this wonderful place!

Happy Trails,

Carolyn (co-owner/guide)

Hiawatha Hiking Company

28 Google reviews

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Jeremy Hunt

2022-01-31

Had the pleasure to join the Intermediate Backpacking Trip in Sept. 2021. Months before the trip Domonick and Carolyn met with us individually to go over the trip and preparations. They took the time to meet again with the entire group ahead of the trip to go over last minute items to ensure we are all set. From the beginning, their preparation and professionalism was top notch and it carried through the whole trip. They made sure everyone was comfortable throughout out the trip and everyone in the group had a great time. Domonick and Carolyn are extremely knowledgeable, prepared and all around great people. We had such a great experience and would love to join them again some day. If you are heading toward Pictured Rocks and want a great experience they should be the only ones you call!

Jamie Davies O'Leary

2021-10-27

This was my first backpacking tour and Carolyn and Domonick were excellent guides! They emphasized safety and planning - from months before the trip through the last day's details - and renting their equipment made things much easier as a newbie. They were responsive to my questions beforehand and helped me and my group have such an amazing time. Dinners were excellent! I also loved hearing about their travels and what they've learned being on various trails.

paul rusch

2021-10-07

Went on a 2 night backpack trip the first weekend of October. The trip was wonderful, the colors were about 90%. The only complaint was that my 66 year old body had a hard time sleeping in a tent. Dominique and Carolyn were great. They tended to our safety, training was good, kept up an appropriate pace, provided help when needed, had a good menu and stops at great views. It was great and I am very glad that I did it.

Christine Artes

2021-09-13

Did the beginner hike over Labor Day and OMG, this was amazing! From the moment you arrive you're well taken care of with food, gear, instructions and safety from the dynamic duo that is Domonick and Carolyn. They both know this area and this trail like the back of their hands! Every detail was spot on and never once did we feel unsafe. You can rent all of the necessary gear and it is top notch! All food...REAL food is provided and the water that we drank and cooked with was filtered straight outta Lake Superior!!! So cool! If you're thinking about doing a guided hike to see PR's, this really is the only company that you should book with. No one else compares!

KAREN WHITAKER

2021-09-08

The beginning backpacking trip was amazing from start to finish. Hiawatha is very organized,, they provided training advice to prepare, the food was good, and guides Carolyn and Domonick are not only extremely experienced hikers and campers, they are wonderful people. I would definitely recommend them to anyone looking for a guided hiking experience.

Richard Clark

2021-08-26

Carolyn and Domonick were awesome! I could not have asked for a better first-time backpacking experience. All I had to do was show up with my list of everyday items, they provided the rest. Carolyn and Domonick helped with tent setup/takedown, filtered water, prepped meals and snacks, and provide moral support. The views are breathtaking. The hike is challenging but very doable. You are not rushed. The camaraderie between fellow hikers, Carolyn, and Domonick is something I will cherish forever. If you ever were apprehensive about backpacking, Hiawatha Hiking Company is the company to use and their Intro to Backpacking tour along Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore is the tour to take.

Catherine Toms

2021-08-25

We had an absolutely wonderful experience! Carolyn and Domonick are incredibly kind, professional, and thoughtful guides. They thought of everything for our trip, and we were safe and well-fed. Every aspect of the hike was planned perfectly. They know the trails well, and led us to some of the most beautiful places in our country. Thank you Hiawatha Hiking Company!

Jeri Rodriguez

2021-08-25

I thoroughly enjoyed this experience. The hospitality provided from the minute I arrived until the minute I drove away was incredible.

Sarah Shields

2021-07-17

We had a great time on a sunset hike with Carolyn and Dominick on our last night in the UP! It was a terrific way to end our vacation. They were organized, well-prepared and very knowledgeable. They shared a lot of information about the Pictured Rocks and Lake Superior, as well as the surrounding area. Their pleasant demeanor made for easy conversation on the hike. It was not quite 3 miles and except for one short stretch at the beginning, mostly flat, so very manageable for inexperienced hikers. We stopped several times for beautiful photos, and then sat and watched the sunset together complete with hot chocolate and sweet treats they provided! We loved getting to see the cliffs from above - a perfect complement to the boat tour we took earlier. We highly recommend the sunset hike!

Maria Thomas

2021-07-02

Carolyn and Domonick are terrific, and the personalized sunset hike they organized for us was stunning. The hike was punctuated with quick stops and informative commentary about geology and area history. Every minute seemed ideal for a pause or a photo, from the first vista to last rays of sunlight, The adventure was made more precious because they agreed to guide us on the sunset walk on a day they don't normally lead hikes. They are personable and knowledgeable nature enthusiasts who clearly love the magnificent beauty of Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore and the surrounding area. Don't miss this opportunity.